I’m Ken, and I run SEASANG APPAREL, a garment factory in Humen, Dongguan. Most of the brands we work with are small, and most of their worries before bulk production are about one thing: the clothing sampling process. How long will it take, how many samples will they need, and what can they do to stop it dragging on for months? This guide walks through that process the way it actually runs on our side, from the moment a tech pack arrives to the moment a client says “approved, go to bulk.”
I’ll use our own timings where I can. For us, one sample round usually takes 7 to 10 days, depending on how complicated the garment is. Bulk production is about 2 weeks after the sample is approved, with shipping arranged separately. Other factories will have different numbers, so treat everything else here as typical industry practice, not a promise.
What the clothing sampling process is actually for
A sample is not a formality. It is the only way both sides can check that the drawing, the measurements, the fabric and the decoration turn into the garment you had in your head. Every problem you catch at sample stage costs you a few days. Every problem you miss costs you a full production run.
A sample answers four questions:
- Fit: does it sit on the body the way you want, in your base size?
- Fabric: is the weight, hand feel and shrinkage right?
- Construction: are the seams, rib, pockets, zips and stitching done the way you specified?
- Decoration and finish: do the print, embroidery or wash look right on the real fabric?
If you know which of these questions each round is meant to answer, you will need fewer rounds. That’s the main idea of this whole guide.
The stages, one by one
1. Tech pack review (usually 1 to 2 days)
When your tech pack arrives, the first job is to read it as if we had to make the garment tomorrow. We look for missing measurements, unclear construction notes, fabric descriptions without a weight, artwork without sizes or placement, and colours given only as “black” or “washed blue.”
We then send back questions. This is the stage founders most often rush, and it is the cheapest place to fix problems. A tech pack doesn’t have to be perfect, but it needs at least:
- Flat sketches, front and back, with details called out.
- A measurement chart for the base size, with how each point is measured.
- Fabric type and weight (for example, French terry around 400 gsm), plus colour reference.
- Trims: rib, drawcords, labels, zips, buttons, rivets.
- Artwork files with size, placement and technique (screen print, puff print, embroidery).
- For denim: the wash you want, ideally with a physical or photo reference.
If you’re unsure about fabric weight for fleece pieces, our hoodie GSM guide explains what different weights feel like and how they behave.
2. Fabric and trims (varies)
We source fabric to your spec: cotton fleece, French terry, cotton jersey or denim. For a sample we need only a small amount, but it still has to be the right fabric. If the sample is made in a substitute fabric, you learn very little about fit or hand feel, and you’ll need another round later.
How long this step takes depends on what you ask for. Common stock colours and weights are quick to find in Humen. Custom-dyed colours, unusual blends or specific denim weights typically take longer, and that time sits outside the sewing time. It’s worth asking your factory early whether your fabric is a stock item or not.
3. Pattern making (part of the sample round)
The pattern maker turns your measurement chart into paper or digital patterns. Good pattern makers will flag things that won’t work, such as a sleeve opening that’s too narrow to pass a hand through after the rib is attached, or a hood that won’t sit properly with the neckline you’ve chosen.
If you send a reference garment you already like the fit of, tell us clearly what to copy and what to change. “Copy this, but 3 cm longer in the body and a wider sleeve” is far more useful than “similar to this.”
4. Cutting, decoration and sewing (part of the sample round)
Once the pattern is ready, the sample is cut and sewn. Decoration happens in between. We arrange printing, embroidery and washing with partner workshops in Humen, so a sample might go out for puff print or chenille embroidery on cut panels and come back for sewing. Denim samples go for washing after sewing.
This is why sample time varies. A plain jersey T-shirt is simple. A hoodie with 3D puff embroidery on the chest and a printed hood takes longer. A pair of jeans with an acid wash has an extra outside step and needs time to dry and finish. That’s where our 7 to 10 day range comes from.
5. Our internal check and photos
Before a sample ships, we measure it against your chart and note any points out of tolerance. We send photos and the measurement sheet so you know what’s coming. If something is clearly wrong on our side, we fix it before shipping rather than wasting your round.
6. Your review and comments
When the sample reaches you, try it on a real person in your base size, wash it once if shrinkage matters, and write your comments against the measurement points. Photos with notes drawn on them help a lot. Then the next round starts, or you approve.
Typical timeline at a glance
| Stage | Typical time | What can make it longer |
|---|---|---|
| Tech pack review and questions | 1 to 2 days, plus your reply time | Missing measurements, unclear artwork |
| Fabric and trims | Varies by material | Custom colours, unusual weights or blends |
| Sample round at SEASANG (pattern, cut, decorate, sew, check) | 7 to 10 days | Complex embroidery, heavy washes, many components |
| Shipping sample to you | Depends on courier and destination | Customs, holidays |
| Your review and comments | Up to you | Waiting for a fit model, unclear feedback |
| Bulk after approval | About 2 weeks | Changes requested after approval |
Notice how many of the delays sit outside the sewing room. In my experience, the time lost to unclear feedback and slow replies is often bigger than the time spent making the samples.
How many sample rounds are normal?
For a new style from a new brand, two or three rounds is common across the industry. Here’s roughly how it tends to go:
- First sample (proto): checks the overall shape, construction and fabric. Expect fit comments.
- Second sample (fit or revised): applies your fit changes and usually has final decoration. Many simple styles are approved here.
- Pre-production sample: made in the exact bulk fabric, colour, trims and finish. This is the reference the bulk is checked against.
Simple, repeat-type products, such as a T-shirt on a block you already approved, can sometimes be approved in one round. Denim with a specific wash, or a tracksuit where top and pants have to match in colour and feel, often needs more. Washes in particular can take an extra round, because the same recipe can look different on a different denim. If wash matters to your brand, our pages on denim manufacturing and acid wash jeans explain what to send us.
Four or more rounds usually means something went wrong earlier: the tech pack was thin, the fabric wasn’t the real one, or feedback changed direction between rounds.
How to cut the number of sample rounds
These are the things that make the biggest difference from where I sit.
Send a reference garment
A physical garment you like the fit of removes a lot of guesswork. Measurement charts are useful, but a real piece shows things charts don’t, like how a drop shoulder falls or how loose the body feels.
Decide fabric before the first round
Changing from a 320 gsm fleece to a 450 gsm French terry after the first sample changes the fit, the drape and sometimes the pattern. Settle fabric first, even if it means waiting a few days for swatches.
Ask for decoration tests separately
For puff print or 3D embroidery, a strike-off on a fabric piece can be checked while the garment is being sewn. If the print is wrong, you fix it without remaking the whole sample. Our pages on puff print hoodies and embroidery cover what details we need for artwork.
Give all your comments at once
Review the sample fully before replying. One complete list of changes is one round. Three separate messages over a week often turn into two rounds, because the second set of comments arrives after the next sample has already been cut.
Use measurements, not adjectives
“A bit tighter” means different things to different people. “Chest 2 cm narrower, sleeve opening 1 cm smaller” gets you the right sample the next time.
Don’t change the design mid-sampling
It’s tempting to add a pocket or a new graphic once you see the first sample. Sometimes that’s right. But every new element is a new thing that needs checking. If you can, freeze the design after round one and only fix fit and quality.
Sample several styles in parallel
If you’re launching a hoodie, matching sweatpants and a T-shirt, send all three tech packs together. They can be sampled in the same window instead of one after the other.
What “approved” should mean
When you approve a sample, put it in writing and say exactly which sample you’re approving, including any small changes still to apply in bulk. Keep the approved sample or a counter sample. Bulk is checked against it, so everyone needs to know what the standard is.
Remember also that our minimum is about 100 pieces per style, per colour (per wash for denim), with sizes split inside that number. If you’re planning several colours, it’s worth deciding at sample stage which colours will actually go into bulk. Our low MOQ guide covers how to plan a first order around these numbers, and the sampling and production page explains how we run the whole process.
A realistic example
Say a brand sends a complete tech pack for a heavyweight hoodie with chest embroidery, along with a reference hoodie for fit, and the fabric is a stock French terry. We review and confirm questions in a day or two, make the first sample in 7 to 10 days, and send it. The founder tries it on, asks for a slightly shorter body and a smaller embroidery, and replies with one clear list. The second sample takes another 7 to 10 days, and it’s approved. Bulk runs about 2 weeks after that, then shipping.
Same hoodie with a custom-dyed colour, no reference garment and feedback in pieces, and you can easily double that time. The factory is the same in both cases. The preparation is what changes.
If you have a tech pack, a sketch or a reference garment ready, send it through our request-a-quote page. Tell us the style, fabric, decoration and quantity you have in mind, and we’ll come back with questions and a sampling plan.
