GSM is the first number a hoodie manufacturer will ask you for, and the one most new brands guess. This guide explains what GSM means, which weight suits which hoodie, and how to specify it so the sample matches what you have in mind.
What GSM means
GSM stands for grams per square metre: the weight of one square metre of the fabric. Higher GSM usually means a thicker, warmer, more structured fabric. It does not tell you everything. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel very different depending on the fibre, the knit and whether the inside is brushed.
Common hoodie weights
| Weight | How it feels | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Around 250–300 gsm | Light, soft, drapes close to the body | Layering hoodies, warm climates, spring and summer drops |
| Around 300–380 gsm | Midweight, the everyday hoodie | Most retail hoodies, merch, year-round basics |
| Around 400–500 gsm | Heavyweight, holds its shape, boxy drape | Premium streetwear hoodies, oversized fits |
| 500 gsm and above | Very heavy and stiff at first | Statement pieces; check comfort and shipping weight |
These ranges are a guide, not a rule. Always confirm on a sample.
Fleece or French terry?
- Brushed fleece has a soft, fuzzy inside. Warmer and cosier, the classic winter hoodie.
- French terry has small loops inside. It breathes better, feels drier and often looks cleaner on heavyweight streetwear pieces.
Tell the factory which inside you want; “450 gsm” alone is not enough.
Composition
100% cotton feels natural and ages well but can shrink if it is not pre-treated. Cotton-polyester blends hold their shape and colour and shrink less. Many streetwear brands choose high-cotton fabrics for hand feel and accept a little more care in finishing. Ask the factory how they control shrinkage for the fabric you choose.
Weight changes the fit
A heavyweight fabric stands away from the body, so the same pattern looks boxier in 450 gsm than in 300 gsm. If you are copying the fit of a reference hoodie, tell the factory its weight too, or send the hoodie itself. The rib for cuffs and hem should be heavy enough to match the body fabric, or it will look thin next to it.
How to specify it
A clear fabric line in your brief looks like this:
“Body: 100% cotton French terry, about 450 gsm, black. Rib: matching cotton rib. Pre-shrunk. Boxy fit, dropped shoulder, double-layer hood.”
Add a reference garment if you have one. We source the fabric to that description and confirm it on the sample, which takes 7–10 days at our factory. Bulk follows about 2 weeks after the sample is approved, from around 100 pieces per colour.
Making matching pants as well? See our tracksuit manufacturing page, or send us your hoodie brief.
